Why Choose an Asscher Cut Diamond?

February 02 2023

The Asscher cut is a rounded square, it has large facets with a high crown and a deep pavillion. It’s most similar to the Emerald cut and has the brightest step cut - creating a ‘hall of mirrors’ effect.

It is suggested to buy this diamond with a clarity of at least VS2 as inclusions are more noticeable due to the table of the stone being flat. Well-cut Asscher Diamond creates flashes of sparkle rather than the twinkling sparkle of brilliant cuts.

This sophisticated shape was popular during the Art-Deco movement and following World War 1: though it was recently seen a comeback in popularity.

The Asscher cut began at the Royal Asscher Diamond Company - which was considered prestigious and well-respected at that time. It was established but father and son, the Asschers, who were both experts in the diamond field.

First developed in 1902, the Asschers were the only ones who were legally allowed to create this diamond cut. This was until World War 2 when most of what the family has built was destroyed and stolen. Due to this, the Asscher cut had a certain historical quality. Not only was it the first patented signature cut, but it was also almost completely destroyed.

Though, it didn’t become popular until the 1920s and then back into fashion in the 2000s.

Technical specification

There are typically 57 facets: 25 on the crown, 8 on the girdle and 24 making up the pavilion.
The number of facets can vary from 50 or 58, though a Royal Asscher has 74.
The ideal ratio is from 1.00 to 1.05
Although it is known for its square shape, it’s actually octagonal due to its corners being cut: though these cropped corners are usually covered by the claws.

Asscher Cut Jewellery

Asscher Amorette Diamond Ring in 18K Yellow Gold

Inspired by the French meaning for Little Love, this setting allows light to pass through the diamond to maximise sparkle. The Yellow Gold and diamond cut combined, give this ring a vintage yet classic feel.

Diamond Set Asscher Bijou Diamond Ring in 18K White Gold

This dramatic and eye-catching design is down to both the diamond set bands and micro-pave halo setting: this helps to maximise sparkle, meaning this ring glimmers everywhere you go.